Antique Diamond Cuts: Understanding the Old European Cut, Old Mine Cut, and Antique Elongated Cushion Cut

In the world of vintage and antique diamonds, no two stones are ever exactly alike. Their uniqueness is part of what makes them so alluring to collectors, designers, and couples seeking something timeless yet deeply personal. Today, we're diving into the world of Old European Cut diamonds, Old Mine Cuts, and the increasingly popular Antique Elongated Cushion Cut diamonds. Whether you're a vintage jewelry enthusiast, a bride-to-be seeking a one-of-a-kind engagement ring, or simply intrigued by the history of diamond cutting, this comprehensive guide will help you understand the key differences—and appreciate the craftsmanship—behind each cut.

The Romance of Antique Diamonds

Antique diamonds were crafted by hand, before the invention of modern technology like laser mapping or high-precision cutting tools. This means each stone was uniquely shaped based on the rough crystal available. Modern diamonds aim for symmetry and light performance. Antique diamonds, on the other hand, prioritize fire, warmth, and individuality.

These three antique diamond cuts—Old European, Old Mine, and Antique Elongated Cushion—represent the most iconic stages in the evolution of vintage diamond cutting. Each has its own story, proportions, and aesthetic appeal.

Old Mine Cut Diamonds: The Original Antique Beauty

Old Mine Cuts date back to the early 18th century and were most popular during the Georgian and Victorian eras (1700s–late 1800s). They are considered the predecessor of the modern brilliant cut.

Key Features of Old Mine Cut Diamonds:

• Shape: Generally cushion-shaped with a squarish outline and rounded corners.

• Cutting Style: Hand-cut with a high crown, small table, and very large culet.

• Facets: 58 facets (like modern brilliants) but arranged with less precision.

• Light Return: Exhibits a softer sparkle with more dispersion (colored light or "fire").

• Symmetry: Imperfect and charmingly organic.

These stones were cut to reflect candlelight, which gives them a glowing, romantic quality. If you appreciate warmth and an old-world aesthetic, Old Mine Cuts are a stunning choice.

Old European Cut Diamonds: The Candlelit Sparkler

Evolving from the Old Mine Cut, the Old European Cut became the dominant style of cutting from the 1890s through the 1930s, during the Edwardian and Art Deco periods.

Key Features of Old European Cut Diamonds:

• Shape: Perfectly round outline with a high crown and open culet.

• Facets: 58 brilliant-style facets.

• Cutting Intent: Designed to maximize sparkle under gaslight and early electric lighting.

• Symmetry: More symmetrical than Old Mine Cuts, but still hand-finished.

• Fire vs. Brilliance: Offers strong fire with broad flashes of light.

These stones are often found in vintage engagement rings from the early 20th century and remain highly sought after by vintage collectors and jewelers who admire their character and historical integrity.

Antique Elongated Cushion Cut Diamonds: The Hybrid Heirloom

The Antique Elongated Cushion Cut is a modern name given to diamonds that blend the soft pillowy shape of old mine cuts with an elongated body and open facets. Often seen in rings from the late 1800s to early 1900s—and increasingly recreated today—this style combines vintage charm with a more flattering finger shape.

Why the Term “Antique Elongated Cushion”?

This term better describes stones that don’t neatly fit into the box of square cushion or old mine shapes. They have elongated proportions and a mix of open faceting and soft corners. Some people refer to them as “modified old mine cuts” or “vintage elongated cushions.”

Key Features of Antique Elongated Cushion Cuts:

• Shape: Rectangular to oval cushion with softly rounded corners.

• Facet Pattern: Varies widely—some have chunky open facets, others have tighter arrangements.

• Visual Appeal: Unique sparkle patterns, often appearing larger than round diamonds of the same weight.

• Versatility: Looks stunning in solitaire, halo, and vintage-style settings.

These cuts are perfect for those who want the charm of antique diamonds, but in a shape that elongates the finger and stands out from the crowd.

Comparison Chart: Old European vs. Old Mine vs. Antique Elongated Cushion

Using the photo provided, here's a side-by-side breakdown of the visual differences:

The Evolution of Vintage Diamond Cuts

1. 1700s – 1800s: Old Mine Cuts were hand-finished using simple tools, producing irregular, pillow-like shapes.

2. Late 1800s – Early 1900s: Old European Cuts emerged as tools improved, creating more circular, symmetrical stones.

3. Modern-Day Interpretation: Jewelers began using the term "Antique Elongated Cushion" to describe stones that combine old-world faceting with longer shapes ideal for today’s rings.

Why These Cuts Are So Popular Today

• Unique Character: Each stone tells a story, with visible hand-cut imperfections.

• Sustainability: Vintage or recycled diamonds have a lower environmental impact.

• Warmth & Fire: These cuts were made to sparkle in softer light, producing rich fire and depth.

• Customization: Antique diamonds are often set into bespoke rings, making each piece one-of-a-kind.

Natural vs. Lab-Grown Antique Cuts

With growing demand, lab-grown Old European and Cushion Cuts are now available. These lab-created stones mimic the vintage faceting and charm of antique diamonds but are made in a controlled environment.

Advantages of Lab-Grown Vintage Cuts:

• Lower Price Point: Up to 70% less than natural counterparts.

• Identical Appearance: Same chemical and physical properties.

• Ethical Sourcing: No mining required.

• Custom Availability: Many vendors offer custom-faceted lab-grown antique cuts.

View Loose Stones Available Now

✨ I currently have two incredible loose diamonds available—both shown in the image above—including an Old European Cut and an Antique Elongated Cushion, available in both natural and lab-grown options.

📸 View on Instagram: @devinejeweler
💬 DM me for pricing, CAD design ideas, or to view them in person at my Carmel office.

About Me – Shelly M. Devine, Private Jeweler & Certified Appraiser

I’m Shelly Devine, a GIA Graduate Gemologist, Certified Master Appraiser (NAJA), and Registered Master Valuer (RMV), currently an ASA Master Gemologist Appraiser candidate. I’ve worked in the fine jewelry and watch industry for 20+ years, including Sacramento, Seattle, and now Carmel-by-the-Sea where I run Devine & Co., a private jewelry office offering:

• USPAP-Compliant Appraisals for insurance, estate, and legal purposes

• Custom Jewelry Design (CAD and hand fabrication)

• Estate Liquidation & Consignment

• Gold Buying at transparent rates

• Loose Diamonds & Bridal Jewelry

• House Calls & Private Office Appointments

You’ll find me deeply committed to quality, transparency, and personal service—always with a microscope, a camera, and a cup of tea nearby. Let’s create something timeless together.

Final Thoughts

If you're looking for a diamond that doesn't look like everyone else's, an antique cut might be for you. With each facet telling a story and every sparkle echoing centuries of craftsmanship, there's nothing quite like a vintage diamond.

CLICK HERE FOR INSTAGRAM REEL: OLD EUROPEAN CUT VS ANTIQUE ELONGATED CUSHION